My mind has been blown - I recently learnt that some vintage compact designs were actually made with real butterfly wings. There are several designs I have found so far by popular brands such as Gwenda and Coty. They have a beautiful iridescent blue background, reflecting different shades of blue. There are a few of these designs around however if you're looking for one with genuine butterfly wings watch out as some have also been made by creating the same effect with foil.
At first I couldn't believe that real butterfly wings were actually used, I searched the internet for evidence of such claims but I couldn't find any definitive answers from a credible source. I decided to try my luck and contact Juliette Edwards to see if she could help me. I felt very privileged to receive a reply straight away which was very informative - confirming that they were indeed used, and how to identify real butterfly wing compacts.
Juliette advised that this topic is covered in her book “Compacts- A Collectors’ Manual” - I'll get this added on my Where to Look post. Most of the butterfly wings used came from the Amazonian butterfly called 'Morpho Didius'. They were also used on pin trays, brooches, and jewellery. Coloured foil was also used as it was presumably cheaper and easier to resource. Foil also lasts longer, if the butterfly wings were to get damp, they would shed scales and lose colour. The Cites agreement now prohibits the use of such natural materials.
The best way to identify if the design is made with real butterfly wings is to look at the design with a magnifying glass. If its a real butterfly wing compact, you'll be able to see the scales on the wings. I have two butterfly wing compacts but at the moment I'm undecided on whether they're real butterfly wings, I need another couple (always a good excuse ha!) to compare them to and determine if they are genuine. I'll keep you posted!